Floor Heater
Firstly, electric floor heater systems are easy to install and have very low start-up cost. For smaller spaces (1-5 rooms) installation process are quite easy. This floor heater system just required a thermostat that only cost you for about $100-$200. Even though electric floor heater systems work well as a primary heat source, nearly all systems are installed in the bathroom to give comfort and warmness to cold tile.
These systems are also usually installed in rooms or in kitchens that demand additional heat.
Secondly, the advantage of using floor heater systems over a warm-water system is the flood build up/height. Floor build up can be as little as 1 mm. The electric cables are generally installed into an insulation board or directly onto the subfloor or padding (under carpet or laminate); followed by the floor covering is placed directly over the heating system or thin set.
Floor heater also benefits from faster installation times, with a typical installation only taking half day to a day depending on size to install. In addition, warm up times are usually a lot quicker than "wet" systems because the cables are installed in a straight line below the finished flooring making it a direct acting heat source rather than a storage heater.
Another big advantage of floor heater is the fact that humidification is unnecessary in the home as it generally is with a forced air system, which also lowers electrical usage costs. Because radiant heat does not change the air moisture content in the house, humidifiers are no longer required to maintain a comfortable living space.
The real advantage of radiant heat (floor heater), though, is when you get out of bed in the morning and don't have to put your feet on a cold floor. More comfortable heat, lower energy costs to operate, and a system that is environmentally friendly is all big benefits of a home radiant floor heater system.
Floor Heater
Thursday, July 17, 2008
Wednesday, July 16, 2008
Floor Heater Technologies
Floor Heater
Floor heater technologies seem to growth rapidly since ancient time. Let’s look some of the technologies of the floor heater.
Contemporary under floor heater systems are commonly either warm water systems or electric systems. Systems can be poured into a stonework mix (called a poured floor system or a wet system) or fastened directly to the sub floor (called a sub floor system or dry system).
In a hot-water system floor heater, warm water is dispersed through pipes or tubes that are laid into the floor (usually a solid-screeded floor, although joist-based systems also work well). A variety of types of pipe are used as well as PEX, multi-layer (a composite of PEX, Aluminium and PEX) which is also known as Alupex (there is also a version using PERT instead of the PEX) and polybutylene (PB): copper pipes are rarely used.
Since it deals a good balance between cost and pressure drop, ⅝-inch (16 mm) diameter tubing is popular: ¾-inch (19 mm) and 1-inch (25 mm) tubing are somewhat exclusive, and ⅜-inch (10 mm) and ½-inch (13 mm) offer extra resistance, which means more energy spending to pump the liquid through the pipe; and the ⅝-inch tubing is often the minimum size needed for efficient thermo siphon.
In Europe, as well as the United Kingdom, 15 mm or 16 mm pipe is commonly used for floor heater system.
On the other hand, a floor heater system that designed to use solar-heated water that circulates by thermo siphon is prone to blockage by air bubbles. They are hard to pass up where the tubing lies so flat or may have high spots. Bubbles in the water build up in the smallest high spots, lastly blocking the flow. A small in-line centrifugal pump, 0.05 horsepower (37 W) in rating, can be used for purging. It will circulate water through the tubing fast enough to extricate an air bubble. The purge pump only activates when the system stagnates and the solar collectors near overheating. When circulation is restored, the pump shuts off.
Gas, oil, solid fuel, or electric-resistance hot-water boilers can be used as the source of heat for any floor heater system, as can a number of other technologies. Condensing boilers and ground-coupled heat pumps are principally well-suited as the operation of floor heater systems permit them to operate in their most efficient manner. Floor heater system can run as low a temperature as 35 °C (95 °F), allowing a heat pump to run at a coefficient of performance in excess of 4.0, compared to the 3.0 with the temperatures needed for use with wall radiators.
Wet floor heater systems can also be used in overturn, where cold water from a chiller is placed in the system taking heat energy out of the building. Nevertheless, care is needed to guarantee that surfaces' temperatures stay above the air's dew point temperature. Otherwise, slipping hazards or mold growth is a concern.
Floor Heater
Floor heater technologies seem to growth rapidly since ancient time. Let’s look some of the technologies of the floor heater.
Contemporary under floor heater systems are commonly either warm water systems or electric systems. Systems can be poured into a stonework mix (called a poured floor system or a wet system) or fastened directly to the sub floor (called a sub floor system or dry system).
In a hot-water system floor heater, warm water is dispersed through pipes or tubes that are laid into the floor (usually a solid-screeded floor, although joist-based systems also work well). A variety of types of pipe are used as well as PEX, multi-layer (a composite of PEX, Aluminium and PEX) which is also known as Alupex (there is also a version using PERT instead of the PEX) and polybutylene (PB): copper pipes are rarely used.
Since it deals a good balance between cost and pressure drop, ⅝-inch (16 mm) diameter tubing is popular: ¾-inch (19 mm) and 1-inch (25 mm) tubing are somewhat exclusive, and ⅜-inch (10 mm) and ½-inch (13 mm) offer extra resistance, which means more energy spending to pump the liquid through the pipe; and the ⅝-inch tubing is often the minimum size needed for efficient thermo siphon.
In Europe, as well as the United Kingdom, 15 mm or 16 mm pipe is commonly used for floor heater system.
On the other hand, a floor heater system that designed to use solar-heated water that circulates by thermo siphon is prone to blockage by air bubbles. They are hard to pass up where the tubing lies so flat or may have high spots. Bubbles in the water build up in the smallest high spots, lastly blocking the flow. A small in-line centrifugal pump, 0.05 horsepower (37 W) in rating, can be used for purging. It will circulate water through the tubing fast enough to extricate an air bubble. The purge pump only activates when the system stagnates and the solar collectors near overheating. When circulation is restored, the pump shuts off.
Gas, oil, solid fuel, or electric-resistance hot-water boilers can be used as the source of heat for any floor heater system, as can a number of other technologies. Condensing boilers and ground-coupled heat pumps are principally well-suited as the operation of floor heater systems permit them to operate in their most efficient manner. Floor heater system can run as low a temperature as 35 °C (95 °F), allowing a heat pump to run at a coefficient of performance in excess of 4.0, compared to the 3.0 with the temperatures needed for use with wall radiators.
Wet floor heater systems can also be used in overturn, where cold water from a chiller is placed in the system taking heat energy out of the building. Nevertheless, care is needed to guarantee that surfaces' temperatures stay above the air's dew point temperature. Otherwise, slipping hazards or mold growth is a concern.
Floor Heater
Design and Install a Floor Heater System
Floor Heater
There are many alternative for radiant floor heater. These steps will help you to decide which type is best for you.
Firstly, please decide what type of fuel do you have (gas, oil, or wood heat outdoor boiler). You may also want to think a solar thermal system to augment the fuel because solar thermal can provide 70 to 80 percent of the hot water needed for a radiant floor heater system and cut your fuel costs. (It could save a lot of cash!)
Secondly, you must decide whether you are installing new floor heater or retrofitting an existing house. If you want to install a new floor heater you must decide whether you want the floor heater install in the piece of concrete or not. If not, figure out how many separate zones you want to have (separately temperature setback zones, such as bedrooms and living spaces).
If you want to retrofit in an existing home, you can put Pex tubing below the floor (if accessible) and insulate under the tubing. Or, you can put down grooved plywood such as warm board, which accepts the tubing, and then put your flooring on top of that.
Lastly, after you have decided what fuel, what type, above or below floor, and number of zones it is easy to search the internet with these steps.
Some tips before installing a floor heater system:
If you have wood on your goods, it is almost complimentary to use an outdoor boiler to heat your radiant flooring or place a coil within your existing furnace. Use the warm water from the wood boiler to circulate heat through your home. Use a two-stage thermostat to first use the fan or pump without the "Fuel" furnace from coming on. This will use the fan or pump "Only" to blow or pump heat into your home without using the Gas, Oil or Electric heater. This saves almost all heating costs.
Warning!
If you are using a wood heat, make sure you check your back-up fuel heater to ensure it operates in case you are out of municipality and your wood heat boiler is not fed wood for days.
Check with your buildings and code department on exhaust gas particulate composition.
Floor Heater
There are many alternative for radiant floor heater. These steps will help you to decide which type is best for you.
Firstly, please decide what type of fuel do you have (gas, oil, or wood heat outdoor boiler). You may also want to think a solar thermal system to augment the fuel because solar thermal can provide 70 to 80 percent of the hot water needed for a radiant floor heater system and cut your fuel costs. (It could save a lot of cash!)
Secondly, you must decide whether you are installing new floor heater or retrofitting an existing house. If you want to install a new floor heater you must decide whether you want the floor heater install in the piece of concrete or not. If not, figure out how many separate zones you want to have (separately temperature setback zones, such as bedrooms and living spaces).
If you want to retrofit in an existing home, you can put Pex tubing below the floor (if accessible) and insulate under the tubing. Or, you can put down grooved plywood such as warm board, which accepts the tubing, and then put your flooring on top of that.
Lastly, after you have decided what fuel, what type, above or below floor, and number of zones it is easy to search the internet with these steps.
Some tips before installing a floor heater system:
If you have wood on your goods, it is almost complimentary to use an outdoor boiler to heat your radiant flooring or place a coil within your existing furnace. Use the warm water from the wood boiler to circulate heat through your home. Use a two-stage thermostat to first use the fan or pump without the "Fuel" furnace from coming on. This will use the fan or pump "Only" to blow or pump heat into your home without using the Gas, Oil or Electric heater. This saves almost all heating costs.
Warning!
If you are using a wood heat, make sure you check your back-up fuel heater to ensure it operates in case you are out of municipality and your wood heat boiler is not fed wood for days.
Check with your buildings and code department on exhaust gas particulate composition.
Floor Heater
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